Welcome to Winter

Winter is well and truly here.  The daylight hours have vanished and many of us are stumbling around in the dark with feed buckets and arms full of hay.  Anyone with a petition to keep daylight saving let us know!

Dr Rebecca Penman BVSc MRCVS has come on board as our veterinarian expert to offer advice on a different subject each month.  Below is a must read article on what to do in an emergency situation that can happen to any horse owner.

David Hankin Dip. WCF has written a fantastic article with tips on how to keep your horse's stud holes in tip top shape to save you time and effort on competition day.

Don't forget the Stubben photo of the week competition.  Send your favorite horsey shot to comp@equinetrader.co.nz and be in to win a fantastic Stubben prize pack valued at $120.00.

                                            
                        "Cheese" 

For those of you who have your own clippers there is a great article on how to maintain and keep them in excellent working order.  If you have a pair that you want to sell click here to advertise them for free.

Check out this amazing link, it takes horsemanship to a whole new level!  Lorenzo : the Flying French Man... 

Tip of the month     Remember your horses's teeth need to be checked at least once a year by a qualified horse dentist or your veterinarian.  Keeping your horse's teeth in good condition will ensure they are getting the most out of their feed and grass intake.

Hoof-care tips with David Hankin

David heads a professional farriery practice in Christchurch.  He is passionate about improving standards of hoof care in New Zealand.  He plans to expand the practice to Auckland and other areas during 2008-2009. 

It can be tricky keeping stud holes clean between competitions.  Using screw-in keepers can cause problems due to the fact that they either protrude beyond the ground surface of the shoe causing an imbalance or if flush fitting, can get stuck in the holes never to come out again!

Cotton wool packed into the holes is the best solution.  Of course it needs to be checked regularly but this can be done every day when you are picking your horse's feet out and the cotton wool replaced as necessary.

Ask your farrier for some horseshoe nails - these are great for removing the old cotton wool.  Once you have removed the cotton wool, use a thread tap (and spanner) to clear the thread and make it easier to fit the studs.  Only use the thread-tap when you're actually putting studs in, as over-use can wear the thread and result in lost studs.

It's a good idea to do a trial run the day before a competition when your horse is settled so you know everything is prepared and ready to go.  Then re-pack the stud holes with fresh cotton wool so everything runs smoothly on your big day. 

Dr Rebecca Penman BVSc MRCVS
                                (Veterinarian/Practice Owner)                      
                         

Rebecca was born in Auckland and grew up riding in Coatesville. She completed her Bachelor of Veterinary Science in 2003 at Massey University in Palmerston North. After spending 6 months practising in New Zealand she spent nearly 2 years in Australia and the UK working at various clinics. She is now the owner of Redvale Park Equine Hospital which has been open since October 2007.  In her spare time she rides her horses, mountain bikes, snowboards and does a little bit of amateur photography.

Winter Injurys

The winter months bring not only the cold and the wet, but also lots of extra risk to our horses both with injury and disease.  With the paddocks becoming slippery there seems to be a lot of horses having battles with wire fences, or even young ones that seem to be trying their efforts at jumping. This is also the time of year where we see a lot of horses getting stuck in creeks and dams after getting too close and sliding in. This means you have to be extra careful with making sure your paddocks are as safe and dry (unfortunately impossible for some!) as possible.

If your horse does sustain an injury or gets stuck it is important to be aware of first aid procedures and know when to call your vet.

Injury with profuse bleeding

Get someone to call the vet for you straight away and keep the horse as still as possible.  With large amounts of bleeding it's likely that a vein or artery has been severed and pressure needs to be applied straight away to prevent your horse going into shock.  Apply a large wad of gauze to the area and apply firm pressure.  If blood starts to leach through the gauze DO NOT remove the gauze but apply more over the top (otherwise you could disturb the blood clot that is forming).  If the bleeding starts to slow and the vet has not yet arrived you can place a bandage around the gauze to keep pressure to the wound and then put a firm stable bandage over the top.  It is important to keep the horse as still and quiet as possible during this time.

Cut/injury requiring stitching
Call your vet and describe the type of wound that your horse has sustained, if there is profuse bleeding treat as above.  If there is no major bleeding then keep your horse quiet and clean the wound with warm water and cotton wool and apply a light bandage until the vet arrives.
           
           

Obvious or suspected bone fracture

Do not move your horse at all, call the vet immediately.  While you are waiting for the vet ensure your horse keeps as still and quiet as possible.  Unless there is any profuse bleeding then it is better not to touch the area in case you cause more damage.

Horse Stuck in a Creek
It is really important in these situations to be as safe as possible.  Ring your vet and the local fire brigade immediately.  While they are on their way please try to stay a safe distance away from your horse, as much as you want to be close to comfort them it is a really dangerous situation to be in.  The best thing you can do is reassure them with your voice.

                         
                              

Maintaining your clippers

There are many brands of clippers and trimmers on the market today.  One of the most important things to remember when purchasing clippers is to make sure you buy the right ones for the job.  Trimmers are smaller and quieter and great for trimming legs, face, bridle paths etc.  Commercial clippers are the best for clipping out the body of the horse.  Some brands on the market today are: Lister, Heineger, Sunbeam, Stewart Oster and Wahl.  This is just a small selection, there are many more brands available today in both electric and battery operated clippers.  The difference between electric and battery clippers are obvious and both offer pros and cons:

Electrical - unlimited clipping time.  Power failure or power surges can stop clipping.  Risk of cord been stood on or becoming tangled.

Battery - no cord, easy manageability.  Limited clipping time, battery life between 45mins - 3 hours dependent on clipper brand.

Clipper care in use:  Make sure your tension knob is adjusted correctly (note different clippers have different tensions).   Frequently oil the blades while clipping.  Dip the tips of blades in diesel during clipping to flush out excess hair (use diesel as it is an oil based product - you no longer have to mix kerosene and oil for this job).  Clip clean and dry horses as dirt and sand will blunt the blades quickly.

In storage:   Have your clippers professionally cleaned and checked to see if a service is required.  Use a reputable agent who has knowledge and experience for this job.  Keep blades in sets away from exposure to air.  Wrapped in tissue paper or a soft cloth with a coating of oil in an airtight container is best.  Don’t wrap the electrical cord around the clippers, this can break wiring internally.

Tips - Do not use blades from one brand of clipper for another brand, even if they look like they fit.  Unplug clippers from power source before changing blades.  If using clippers moderately - service every 1-2 years, if using clippers professionally for the winter - service every year.  Use a RCD unit with electrical clippers.  As blades start to go blunt they will no longer glide through the hair.  You can slightly tighten tension half a turn to get a bit more life from the blades.  As a rule you should be able to clip between 4-6 horses to a set of blades.  This varies on how clean and dry the horses are that you have been clipping.

Taking on the role of Office Manager is Ashley Balfour.

"Recently employed by Equine Trader I am enjoying the role being surrounded by horsey, like minded people.  I compete in low-level show jumping and eventing and will be focusing on show hunter this coming season with "Sheena" my lovely 6 year old, Clyde/TB mare. (pictured below)
 
                                  
                                                        
I have also just purchased an in-foal, 4 year old, 13.1hh, un-broken and not very well handled, roan mare who I have named "Spice".  Yes I'm a sucker for punishment but I love a good project.  She was delivered to me in a huge five horse truck on her own as there was no chance of us getting her onto my double float.  After an hour or so of leading her around and letting her graze, feeding her carrots and giving her a few scratches behind the ear, I let her out into a paddock thinking that was the last time I would be touching her for some time.  Surprisingly cupboard love does work and I'm having no problems catching her with a carrot or two.  Once the foal arrives I will break her in and borrow my friend's kids to ride her.  So far she is a real sweetie and I can't wait for the baby!  Will keep you updated on her progress."

                                     
                                                         "Spice"


Happy Riding

from the Team at Equine Trader

www.equinetrader.co.nz